Col de la Madone
The most iconic and spectacular climb of the Cote d'Azur made famous by Lance Armstrong as a training ground to prepare for the Tour de France before his epic fall from grace.
John Maton shares his experience climbing the col de la Madone by bike.
"Being a circular route, you can go upon there from either side, from La Turbie or via Gorbio. Ascending from La Turbie is slightly easier and is more shaded. From Gorbio the climbs are longer and steeper and more in the full glare of the sun. There are still shaded parts. I like both. The scenery is never less than spectacular in both."
Start at Beausoleil
Beausoleil is about 25 km from Nice and about 10-12 km to the Italian border.
Proceed to the Northern end of Boulevard Guynemer which is where Beausoleil adjoins Roquebrune - Cap Martin. Turn left at the end onto D6007 Route de la Moyenne Corniche.
Within 300 - 400 metres, you pass the Ineos Team house on your right. Team members can often be seen on the road in the area training and especially up at the Col and particularly in Autumn / Winter. I have twice encountered Chris Froome going up/down to the Col. I have also seen members of Movistar Team up there on more than one occasion.
Proceed up the hill and take the first right the D51 Avenue Agerbol up to the Vista palace Hotel (Under renovation). Direction “Autoroute”.
Beausoleil
Beausoleil is adjacent to Monaco, with Beausoleil being considered a suburb of Monaco. It was previously called Monte Carlo Alta. It is about 25km from Nice.
Clockwise via la Turbie
At the Vista Palace, turn left onto D2564 Route de la Turbie - direction La Turbie. From Boulevard Guynemer to La Turbie is about 7.5Kms. It's climbing all the way. About 7-8 % gradient at max.
I always find the first climb from turning left onto the D6007 the hardest part of the climb as my legs are not warmed up.
The "Mother" Fountain
At La Turbie there are Roman remains. In the centre of the village on the main road, there is a Roman fountain which is still in use and I think just about all cyclists stop there to fill their water bottles. It's a great meeting point.
The road through the village continues to the "Autoroute" and Nice, or by the Grande Corniche to Nice. (The latter is another favourite ride).
From the Roman fountain, retrace your route for about 100 metres and take the road on the left - D53 Route du Mont-Agel.
This climbs quite steeply within about 50 metres.
You continue climbing for about 1-2 km until it bears quite sharply left and becomes the Route de Peille. It is possible to continue straight, but that leads to the Golf Course. The main road is the one that goes around to the left.
The gradient decreases immediately and after about 500 metres or so more or less levels out. You continue on this road for about 3-5 km and the gradient is always about the same. I consider this the flat part of the ride. Eventually, the road descends to Peille (La Turbie - Peille about 10 km).
About 2.5 km before Peille, take the road on the right - D22 direction Sainte Agnès. Now it's climbing all the way up to the Col.
Hairpins and Succession of Tunnels
There are several hairpins and then the road hugs the side of the mountain.
Eventually, there are 3 very short tunnels to pass through and a wooded area. On a clear day, you can see the runway at Nice Airport and the Côte d’Azur. Its about 5-6 kilometres from the right turn up to the Col.
There are cyclists up there every day of the year. I have been up there every month of the year and even on Christmas Day.
There are yellow markers frequently by the roadside which indicate the elevation. The Col is at 910 metres above sea level.
Boulevard Guynemer is at about 140 metres.
Twice while cycling up to the Col, I have come across tightrope artists with a wire suspended across the void and attached to rocks at sharp curves in the road. The first time, I encountered them there was low cloud and it was completely fogged out. But, it did not deter them.
To the Top
You know when you are arriving at the Col. There is a yellow marker announcing 910m.
You exit the wooded area and there is an open area on the right with usually one or two cars parked. The road goes slightly right then left and you are there.
There is a wall on the left with some signs, recently installed, celebrating fallen American and Canadian soldiers during the Second World War.
The ground descends to the right with hiking trails. There is a dilapidated house above the signs and behind a wall.
Anti-Clockwise via Gorbio and Sainte-Agnes
At the Vista Palace, continue onto the D2564 (Route de la Turbie) direction Menton. The Vista Palace is at a crest in the road overlooking Monaco. Taking the road around to the left continues to La Turbie. The only other option is also on the left to take the "Autoroute" direction Genoa.
There is now a fast descent for about 1-2 km. Then take the Promenade de la 1ère Division Française Libre / Grande Corniche direction Gorbio through the Parc naturel Départemental du Cros de Casté à Roquebrune.
The road climbs sharply for about 2 km. You will pass a training centre for dogs and the local rubbish dump (on your left). Stay on the same road.
The Grande Corniche
The road is quite a wooded area, but it's possible to see the views through gaps in the trees.
Eventually, you reach the end of this climb at a point where the road widens, crests, there are a few houses and often a couple of parked cars. The road descends and there are several hairpins.
You will pass the Cemetery of Roquebrune-Cap Martin on your right. Soon, there is a slight accent and then the road levels out. The road is quite flat for about 4-5 kilometres until reaching Gorbio. This flat part of the ride is particularly noteworthy.
Spectacular Views of the Mountains
Views are spectacular of the mountains, Menton and along the coast of Italy direction Ventimiglia. Part of the ride is wooded with lots of pine trees.
On hot Summer days, it's like passing through a cool refreshing shower.
Gorbio
You arrive at Gorbio. Usually, it takes me about 55 minutes from Boulevard Guynemer.
Good to refill water bottles here as there is no other fountain before the Col.
You cross the village and descend through the village. There are a few hairpins. Beware of traffic coming towards you. This is a bus route. You are descending on the Route de Menton D23 towards Menton.
After about 2 km, you have to take the first proper right turn (not a cul de sac for a few houses) which is at a hairpin (the hairpin goes around to the right) and close to Five Star Motors onto the Chemin du Col de Garde le Quiaus.
This descends for a couple of hundred metres. As you reach the bottom of this road, the road turns sharp left with a small climb and you are cycling alongside the "Autoroute" (for a couple of hundred metres).
You are slightly elevated above the road and there is an embankment and a wire fence separating your road from the highway. The road starts to climb and you wind your way through some trees and houses both sides of the road.
The road leads into Chemin des Vignes. The road levels up and eventually descends a few hundred metres.
The Climb
When you join the D22, this is where the real climb to the Col commences. You keep to this road all the way to Sainte-Agnès.
Gorbio - Sainte Agnès is about 10 km. This road up to Sainte-Agnès is about 7-8 km and is climbing all the time and quite a lot of 8,9 and 10%. There are several hairpins and quite a lot of this road is not shaded and winds across the mountain.
The road does not take you into the village. You arrive in an area where the road opens out and there is a bus stop and place enough for buses to turn and park.
There are 4 roads that meet here: the one you arrived on, one up to the village, a third to the Col des Baquettes / Peille and the last up to the Col.
The road up to the Col is the first on your left. We continue on the D22 Avenue de l'Orméa up to the Col.
Stunning Views of Hairpinned Roads
You pass through a wooded area, and then you arrive at the first of two steep hairpins.
Continue to the second similar steep hairpin. The views from these hairpins are exceptional.
Shortly afterwards, the gradient reduces and the road also widens. Watch out for fallen rocks on the road. You pass through 2 short tunnels. All the tunnels mentioned are carved out of rocks. Be careful of fallen rocks inside the tunnels here. Not a bad idea to have a front light.
Straight up to the Col
It's now straight up to the Col. A lot of 9-10%. Quite open: The mountain on your right and a valley on your left. About 1km before the summit, there is little hut on your left. A good indication of not too far to go.
At the last corner before the top, the road widens and there is a small lay-by. Several times, I have found a man practicing his drumming ability there. He has a small cassette player and is often playing Beatles or Stones tapes and drumming along. He is French and keen follower of the Tour de France. We often have a chat. Another 100 metres and you arrive at the Col.
Time for a drink and an energy bar and sit on that wall for a few minutes!
